Reviving an old, beautiful ride!
Those who have lived and grown old in the old town of Banaras or Varanasi would probably rue the days gone by, of rich culture, art and pure Indianness. Those were the days, in 1930 and 40s where bajras lolled slowly on the river Ganges. Bajras were essentially big boats, with a huge cabin built on the deck and on top of the cabin, rich luxurious carpets were laid out, twinkling lights were lit, the bajras used to be decked in roses, jasmines and marigold. Guests, usually 15-20 would crowd on these ‘lounges’ and watched courtesan art, some bajras even had kavi sammelans and classical musicians, singing into the night, as the bajra slowly passed along the various ghats. Ittar was a must and so was thandai and seasonal delicacies. The cooks and the helpers stayed in the cabin, while all the ‘action’ happened atop.
This bajra culture was good as long as it stuck to art and culture but soon it slipped into debauchery and hippies used these bajras for long nights of smoking ganja. The spiritual pollution of the very ethos of Ganga was put to an end by some of the leaders and soon this very culture just slipped away.
Today, this culture of bajras is once again revived, keeping it pure and only about promoting art and culture. The spectacular views of the ghats on full moon night would be priceless. And carrying a hefty price tag, you too can now host a baithak on these bajras. A few months ago, a Delhi businessman hosted a baithakand stalwarts of classical music like Girija Devi, the late Purnima Chaudhary Dalia Raut and kathak dancer Sashwati Sen had performed for the event hosted on two bajras that were tethered together. A fest, known as ‘Naman’ was also recently held to felicitate and celebrate the talent of Girija Devi. The Ambanis already know about this and had hired a bajra for a birthday party. There is music fest from 30th Nov where a customized new barge will take 50 tourists from Rajghat to Assi Ghat at sunset, with concerts on the deck by Varanasi's young musicians.
Wow! This would be once-in-a-lifetime event and probably a small glimpse into how things were in the days of zamindars. A great tourist attraction; we only hope that there is a restriction on the number of bajras that can operate at a time; or else it will become a circus on the Ganges even at night.